Reading time 15 minutes.
I am skipping the posts on Vietnam, China part 2 and 3 to jump to the second half of our trip in Latin America. Traveling keeps you busy, entertained and tired, which is not very good for productivity.
April 10, 2024
The Iberia flight for Buenos Aires leaves at 7h30 from Orly Airport. We leave home at 4 am. It has never been an issue to order an Uber in the middle of the night in Paris. It cost us 26 euros instead of 36 euros if we had booked a taxi in advance with Taxi G7. The airline counters are not open yet when we arrive, more than 2h30 before departure.
Some rows of the plane were empty around us. It is so good to have an entire row (3 seats) during a long flight. You need to be quick to occupy a row after the boarding is complete. Asians are pretty quick at this. Temperature is hard to predict on the planes. I had 3 blankets on me. Of course, I enjoyed the overall experience with Iberia with 3 seats. The food was nice (ham sandwich).
We bought and topped up the SUBE card at the first drugstore at the arrival. We took the bus line 8 direction Plaza de Mayo.
I was concerned about the blue dollar and the official/informal exchange rate. The informal exchange rate is significantly better (by 10%) than the official exchange rate. I thought a would need to exchange US dollars or euros to Argentinian pesos in a cuevas or with arbolitos (street vendors) on Florida Street. I actually watched the film Money Exchange (Cambio cambio in Spanish) on the plane.
We planned to pay everything with cash to take advantage of the informal rate. It turned out credit cards are accepted in most places and the bank’s conversion rate is pretty much the same as the informal rate. We could change money at the hotel. It was fun to change money on Florida street with an arbolito. We negotiated on the street and went to a flower kiosk to make the transaction. The best rate we had was with Western Union (20% above the official rate). Hotel prices are in US dollars on Booking.com, the official rate was used by hotels to charge us in pesos. Often times, that rate was actually between the official rate and the Banco de la Nacion (BNA) selling rate.
April 11, 2024
The hotel is an impressive building at the corner of Avenida de Mayo and Avenida 9 de Julio (9 de julio de 1816 is the date of the Independence of the country). The lift is extremely old and makes a lot of noise. The ceiling is very high, allowing the rooms to be split-level.
Buildings in the Centro district look like buildings in Madrid. There is a clear European vibe.
We walked to Plaza de Mayo, Florida Street, reached the Obelisk. The monuments around plaza Lavalle are very impressive. For instance, there is the Teatro Colón which is an opera theater. La Recoleta is one of the wealthiest districts of the city. It reminds me of the wealthiest districts in Paris. The Centro Cultural Recoleta is an interesting place where you can find coworking spaces, art exhibitions, offices, cafés, dance studios and other events. A place that fosters arts, creativity, and community.
People greet with one kiss on the cheek.
Even in a casual restaurant, Argentinian beef taste good.
April 12, 2024
Puerto Madero is a district East of Plaza de Mayo. There is a canal with big sailing boats. Renovated red brick buildings (probably former factories) along the canal remind me of Canal Lachine in Montreal. It is a modern district. You can see a group of tours in the background.
We start to realize that Argentina is going to be much more expensive than Asia. There is a reason why backpackers on budget spend time in South-East Asia.
It is raining on a week day. We walk through San Telmo district: Mercado San Telmo, plaza Derrego and Defensa street are empty. It is not much fun: we will come back on Sunday for the Ferria (the market).
On the bus, the price of the ride depends on the destination. The driver asks for the destination before we pay.
The Centro Cultural Kirchner is a former huge post office. It now contains a concert hall. We visited the building during the day and grabbed the free tickets for a performance of the Orchestra Nacional de Musica Argentina happening in the evening. It was a truly memorable experience. The orchestra was a symphonic orchestra augmented with a drum, an electric guitar, 2 or 3 accordions, and more. Musicians clapped, singed. Wind instruments were used for percussion. The music they played, mostly from 20th century Latin American composers, was new to us and simply beautiful.
April 13, 2024
My sister and her boyfriend join us for two weeks starting tonight!
I think visits of Casa Rosada (the presidential workplace) have stopped since the pandemic. The official website page for guided tours is broken. An alternative is to visit the Congreso/Senado, only open during week days. The Casa Rosada museum is not in the presidential building. Anyway, we asked the guards and it was closed for visits.
We started the day at Latino Sandwich, our favorite place for breakfast, with a milanesas pollo sandwich (so crispy, rich and unhealthy) and a cafe con leche. The coffee flavour is not strong enough, and I missed the condensed milk in the Vietnamese Cà Phê Sữa.
We went to the Cementerio de la Recoleta by bus. It was very fast because it drove for part of the trip on a dedicated corridor (on avenida 9 de julio) shielded from traffic. The Lonely Planet 2022 is a bit outdated, the cemetery is no longer free. The entrance fee was 8000+ pesos (8+ euros). Guided tours are not offered on weekends, so we visited solo.
The cemetery is one of the top touristic attractions in the city. The tombs are truly magnificent. Tombs highlighted in the brochure are often resting places of generals or state men/presidents.
We had empanadas and locro (stew with pre-Hispanic origins) at El Sanjuanino, a traditional and cozy restaurant. The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes has some interesting collections and it is free. There are funny pre-Hispanic sculptures and gloomy paintings from the second half of the 20th century.
Then, we headed to the Retiro district, walking through very wealthy streets. Almost all buildings had concierge.We visited two shopping malls for their supposedly remarkable architecture: Patio Bullrich and Galerías Pacífico. It was not that great because we were not in the mood for shopping.
In Retiro you can find: Torre Monumental, Kavanagh Building, Estrugamou Building, Palacio Paz, Palacio San Martin (haven’t been).
We indulged in an affordable and satisfying high tea at the Palacio Paz, a sumptuous building probably worth a guided tour. We did not have dinner, portions are very generous in Argentina so far.
April 14, 2024
Coffee came with a glass of sparkling water.
The hotel did not offer money exchange before Monday. We changed USD on Florida Street.
The ferria (market) starts from Plaza de Mayo and stretches to la Bocca. We tasted many kinds of dulce de leche. Empanadas at Mercado San Telmo were the best we had. Walking from San Telmo place to la Bombonera stadium is not very interesting. The cute colorful houses in la Bocca are between la Bombonera and the river in the south of the district.
We wanted to visit the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur next to Puerto Madero. It was closed because it rained a little in the morning. How frustrating to close it for a few drops of rain! We ended-up walking along the park.
Excellent dinner at the steakhouse Cabana Las Lilas. We had unlimited appetizers, two exquisite pieces of beef, and pommes de terre soufflées.
April 15, 2024
A day in Palermo.
We changed 1000 USD in Argentinian pesos. We received a plastic bag of cash. Exchange rate: 1 US dollars for 985 pesos.
In the Parque 3 febrero in Palermo, many people are running. It is a good place to run and people seem to be into sports in the area. There is a Japanese garden in the park. We made some origami cranes and simpler animals.
Then, we walked to the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano nearby. It has a small and beautiful collection of 20th centuries Latin American pieces of art. I did not know any artists featured in this museum, except for Frida Kahlo.
Palermo Soho in Palermo Viejo reminds me of the Mile-End in Montreal, but slightly more upscale. I like to hang up in places like this. After dinner, my sister insists on having a bubble tea and finds a good address a few blocks away. Bubble tea is everywhere!
April 16, 2024
Today we fly to El Calafate.
It rained a lot when we were in Buenos Aires. The meteorological phenomenon El Niño (2023-2024) could explain why it rains a lot in Argentina this year. The Andes could explain why the Chilean side is greener than the Argentian side. I have to confirme that with my own eyes.
We meet a family of Québécois. They are traveling for 3 weeks in Argentina with their 2-year-old and 2-month-old kids. They are planning to carry the kids on 20+ km hikes in El Chalten. La Laguna de Los Tres has a very steep finish. They were fit and good-looking.
We decided to rent a car at the airport. The taxi to the city was 21k (around 21 euros) and the transportation to the Perito Moreno glacier back and forth was 40k per person (37k by cash). We could drop the car in the city center. Since we were 4 people, renting a car was economical (80k saving) and more flexible than the bus. We paid 80k for the rental (we might have saved a bit if we had removed the complete insurance) and 8k for the gas.
The Perito Moreno entrance fee was 12k per person. There are two car parks. We parked in the small one, higher up and closer to the glacier. The weather changed from light rain to clear sky. The noise it makes is like a gun shot sometimes. The view points were great. The most impressive thing we saw was a big block of ice falling, followed by an even bigger piece coming out of the water, raising dozens of meter high.
Prices are high compared to Buenos Aires. We paid 20k per person for a main dish and a drink. Even though the restaurant was one of the most recommended in the city, the food was just okay.
April 17, 2024
Bags of chips are almost empty and full of air. Is it meant to protect the chips?
We went to la Reserva Laguna Nimez. To give you an idea of the inflation in Argentina recently, the entrance fee was 135 pesos in the Lonely Planet 2022, it costs 10k today. It was a good experience. However, if you want to see the flamingos, you don’t need to enter the reserve and pay. They can be watched from the beach (not part of the reserve) in front of the reserve. Flamingos have orange and black colors when they spread their wings to fly. It is beautiful to watch them fly. They mostly rest though.
April 19, 2024
Today we go from El Calafate to El Chalten by bus. The luggage handler asked for a tip because, seemingly, he does not receive any base salary. I find it hard to believe, is he even working there?
We asked the bus company if we could go from El Calafate bus terminal to the airport. They said they did not provide this service. The company VES offers hotel pickup to the airport, its office was closed, reservation could only be made online.
We were wondering if we were looking at guanacos or vicunas along the road. There are only guanacos!
April 20, 2024
The four of us walk the Laguna Torre trail: 10 km to the lake, and 2 more km to go to the glacier mirador (Mirador Maestri). It is a long hike but the first 10 km are pretty flat and easy to walk. The end is more challenging and can be skipped if you want to preserve yourself. The colors of the fall and the clear view of the summits made it very rewarding. On the way back, instead of following the river, we passed by an incredibly charming camp site. I can’t belive Y said she would consider camping there.
We ate sandwiches for lunch and cooked for dinner to save money. To put that into perspective, let’s say we haven’t cooked for the last 6 months in Asia.
April 21, 2024
Rest day and short walk to the Mirador de los Condores. We haven’t been to Mirador de las Aguilas (eagles) to keep some energy for the next day.
Condors are impressive. They often came to visit us when new groups of people arrived at the mirador. This spot is popular as part of day tours to El Chalten.
April 22, 2024
We left before sunrise for the Laguna de Los Tres trail. Dulce de leche sandwiches for breakfast made it possible to leave early. After one km the view on the mount Fitz Roy is already nice. The hike starts with a 5 km climb, then it is flat until the 10km and ends with a steep climb to the lake. We filled our bottles at the river, very close to the glacier, before the steep climb. At the summit (I mean the lake), wild animals (fox, prey birds) came for food. It was such a beautiful hike!
April 23, 2024
Well deserved resting day. We just walk a little bit on the Laguna Torre trail to get some fresh air.
April 24, 2024
Indoor temperature is often very hot. I can often wear a t-shirt without feeling cold.
The way things work in Argentina is not too surprising to us. Except for for the massive amount of cash needed due to high inflation. The biggest bill amounts to 2 euros. Some hotels and restaurants are equipped with machines to count bills.
We decide to hike Lomo del Pliegue Tombado. Views at the top are supposed to be breathtaking. How would I know? It is 10 (mirador) + 1 (summit) km one way. It snowed at the top. And it rained when we went down. Hiking under the rain or melting snow is not great. It’s uncomfortable, and cold if you are not equipped properly. And you can’t see much in the distance.
Overall people walk fast.
Foreigners don’t pay VAT at hotels.
April 25, 2024
We had some delicious pizza mostly vegetarian at Laborum. We ordered one pizza with two different halves. It’s far from enough for two. Their drinks and desserts are worth it. We will try to reproduce the desserts They have board games, even though nobody plays, and the vibe is nice. I was surpised to find such a place in El Chalten. Feina, a kind of tortilla, can be eaten with the pizza.
We would like to go to Easter Island from Santiago. We can’t book the tickets on LATAM website and they are the only ones offering this flight. We don’t really want to book with an intermediary because we wasted tickets a few months earlier when booking a LATAM flight with Oppodo. Other options mostly available in Chile: airline counters, on the phone, LATAM Travel offices.
April 26, 2024
Bidets seem to be common in Argentina.
It snows heavily in El Chalten.
April 27, 2024
Flying from El Calafate to Ushuaia and meet Y’s sister.
The one-way 1h20 flight was very expensive (300+ euros) because we had this precise date in mind and booked a bit late. Being flexible on the dates would have saved half of the price. Booking well in advance would have saved 3/4 of that price. We could have taken an 18-hour bus as well.
In hotel rooms and apartments, toilet doors are too often missing a lock.
We take advantage of the Western Union exchange rate which is 20% above the official rate. We now have a lot of pesos bills: thousands of bills. New bigger bank notes will be introduced soon (next year?).
Ushuaia is surrounded by the montains and the sea (Beagle Channel). I really like its location.
April 28, 2024
We hiked towards Glaciar Martial, a small glacier visible from Ushuaia. There was a thin layer of melting snow. None of us had waterproof shoes. We got there with Uber for 2500 pesos. A local taxi charged us 4800 pesos for the return trip which was slightly longer. It was definitely cheaper to use Uber. Some Argentinians (from Salta) we met during the hike recommended the Cascada Alemania near Cafayate in the Salta province.
We had a late lunch at the Ramos Generales El Almacén, a historic place converted in a restaurant. It has many mundane objects on the walls. It start to see a trend here. In my mind, a restaurant or bar at the end of the world would look like this.
In Salta region for hiking Alemanille cascada after cafayate pueblo
April 29, 2024
National park Tierra del Fuego. We were almost alone the whole day. We saw plenty of animals and beautiful landspaces.
The day before, we reserved a taxi who picked us up at our place at 8h30. At 9 am we were at the beginning of the hike. Entrance fee was 12,000 per person. The same taxi picked us up at 6pm at the end of the national route number 3. The taxi arrived at 5:30. It took us 1 hour to come back to Ushuaia.
We did the coastal Hike and then the small hike at the end of Lapataia bay
For dinner, we had a delicious Patagonian seabass. The wine pairing was very generous. The restaurant has a good location, on the heights of the city. But the view of Ushuaia by night is disappointing.
April 30, 2024
Helicopter tour in a Robinson 44. Even if it was short, around 15 minutes, it was an amazing experience. We flew over Ushuaia, laguna Esmeralda, and came really close to Glaciar Ojo del Albino.
May 1, 2024
Laguna del Caminante trail, including la Cueva de Jimbo.
We started 1h15 before the sunrise. It was muddy. And the snow started melt and fall from the trees when the temperatures rose.
When we arrived at the crossing, one path leading to Laguna del Caminante, the other to la Cueva de Jimbo, the layer of snow became really think. Nobody went further recently. We decided to turn back. It would have been dangerous to move forward given our lack of equipment and slow speed under these conditions.
May 2, 2024
Visit of the city and shopping. Y bought a shot with a penguin and la Ruta Nacional 3 on it. It was a beautiful day, perfect for another helicopter tour.
We went to see the gentoo penguins in la Isla Martino. We paid 75k pesos in cash at the Onashaga agency. 83k was the first/official price. The road to get there is beautiful, especially Mont Olivia. Onashaga appears in multiple places, it is the name of the Beagle Canal in the Yaghan language.
Males are the one with the fur and they weight twice as much as the females.
When we got close to Chile, our French telephone operator thought we were no longer in Argentina. We were charged 7euros per megabyte. It can be expensive very quickly. Be careful when you get close to the borders!
Gentoo are incredible birds, seeing them swimming was such a magical moment and also when they get on shore. We did not except that watching them would be such fun. Sunset timing was perfect as they get back from fishing. We saw dozens of groups of them coming back. It was an incredible show
Dinner at Parilla la Estancia. The lamb was very good. Lambs are showcased at the front of the restaurant, like in many restaurants. We also had sirloin (filet) and bife de chorizo (thinker). We think we had about 500g of meat per person, and we finished.
For dessert: banana dulce de leche at home !
May 3, 2024
We are going to Punta Arenas with the 7 am bus. At first they did not want to turn on the heating. Fruits could not pass the Chilean customs.
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